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OXFORD
MOUNTAINEERING ESSAYS
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TO
G. WINTHROP YOUNG
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OXFORD
MOUNTAINEERING
ESSAYS

EDITED BY
ARNOLD H. M. LUNN

LONDON
EDWARD ARNOLD
1912

[All rights reserved]
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PREFACE

Oxford, they tell us, is the homeof movements; Cambridge the homeof men. Certainly the miniature movementthat took shape in this little bookwas inspired by a Cambridge man. Itwas at an Oxford tea-party, wherethe talk had been unashamedly ofmountains and their metaphysic, thatMr. G. Winthrop Young gave thefirst impulse to the scheme that ultimatelyproduced this collection of essays.To Mr. Young the editor and contributorshave been indebted for constant helpand advice. He has heartened thedespondent, and has inked cold daylightinto more than one ‘sunset’passage.

At Oxford there are a number of Alpineclubs. The oldest and most sedate meetsonce a year in New College Hall. A lessdignified association meets at irregularviintervals on New College Hall and otherhospitable roofs. Lastly, there is a geniallittle society which owed its beginningsto some twenty undergraduates whoagreed they could spare an occasionalarduous evening to the revival of theirAlpine memories. One confiding memberbought a lantern, and has sinceendeavoured—with indifferent success—torecoup himself out of spasmodicsubscriptions. We shall none of usforget the first meeting. In our innocencewe had hoped that a scientistmight know something of electricity,and Mr. Bourdillon was in consequenceentrusted with the lantern. After muchhissing on the part of the machine,and of the audience, a faint glowappeared on the sheet, and envelopedin a halo of restless hues we dimly discernedthe dome of Mont Blanc. Apathetic voice from behind the lanternsadly inquired whether we would ‘preferMont Blanc green and spluttering oryellow and steady.’ The chairman thenproceeded to read a paper illustrated orrather misrepresented by lantern slides,viiand at the conclusion proposed a veryhearty vote of thanks to himself for hisinteresting and entertaining lecture. TheHouse then divided, and the motion waslost by an overwhelming majority. Theminutes also record that a member movedto inhibit the secretary of the ChurchUnion from issuing a printed prayerfor ‘faith to remove mountains.’ Thismotion was lost, as Mr. Tyndale ablypointed out the value of a publicationthat might facilitate the transfer ofsome superfluous mountains from theAlps to the monotonous surroundingsof Oxford.

The members of this learned societyfurnished the majority of our contributors.‘Conscious as we are ofone another’s deficiencies,’ we view withmisgiving the publication of theseessays. We have no virgin ascents, noclimbs of desperate difficulty, to record.Our justification must rest on othergrounds.

In a paper memorable for the circumstancesof its delivery, and the dramaticirony of its concluding words, DonaldviiiRobertson pleaded for a simpler treatmentof our mountain worship, andclaimed that there was ‘still room fora man to tell freely and without falseshame the simple story of a day amongthe mountains.’ And this is what someof us have attempted.

And further, althou

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