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Etext prepared by Garry Gill (garrygill@hotmail.com) and the DistributedProofreading team of Charles Franks (http://charlz.dynip.com/gutenberg).

CYPRUS

AS I SAW IT IN 1879

by SIR SAMUEL WHITE BAKER, M.A., F.R.S., F.R.S.A.,
                     F.R.G.S., &c.

Author of "Ismailia," "The Albert N'Yanza," "The Nile Tributaries of
Abyssinia," "Eight Years in Ceylon," "The Rifle and Hound in Ceylon."

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I. ARRIVAL AT LARNACA CHAPTER II. THE GIPSY-VANS ENCOUNTER DIFFICULTIES CHAPTER III. ROUTE TO NICOSIA CHAPTER IV. THE MESSARIA CHAPTER V. START FOR THE CARPAS CHAPTER VI. CAPE ST. ANDREA CHAPTER VII. KYRENIA AND THE NORTH COAST CHAPTER VIII. ROUTE TO BAFFO CHAPTER IX. FROM BAFFO TO LIMASOL CHAPTER X. THE WINE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL CHAPTER XI. FROM LIMASOL TO THE MOUNTAINS CHAPTER XII. THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA CHAPTER XIII. WOODS AND FORESTS CHAPTER XIV. REMARKS ON IRRIGATION CHAPTER XV. LIFE AT THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA CHAPTER XVI. SOMETHING ABOUT TAXATION CHAPTER XVII. THE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL AND LANDOWNERS CHAPTER XVIII. ON POLICE, WAGES, FOOD, CLIMATE, ETC. CHAPTER XIX. POLITICAL REFLECTIONS CHAPTER XX. CONCLUSION

APPENDIX

INTRODUCTION.

I do not intend to write a history of Cyprus, as authorities alreadyexist that are well known, but were generally neglected until theBritish occupation rescued them from secluded bookshelves. Even had Ipresumed to write as a historian, the task would have been impossible,as I am at this moment excluded from the world in the precincts of themonastery of Trooditissa among the heights of ancient Olympus or modernTroodos, where books of reference are unknown, and the necessary datawould be wanting. I shall recount my personal experience of this islandas an independent traveller, unprejudiced by political considerations,and unfettered by the responsible position of an official. Havingexamined Cyprus in every district, and passed not only a few days, butwinter, spring, and summer in testing the climatic and geographicalpeculiarities of the country, I shall describe "Cyprus as I saw it in1879," expressing the opinions which I formed upon the spot with theresults of my experience.

Although I have read many works upon this island, I have no books withme except that interesting record of the discovery of antiquities byGeneral di Cesnola, and the invaluable compilation for the IntelligenceBranch, Quartermaster-General's Department, Horse Guards, by CaptainSavile, 18th Royal Irish Regiment. It is impossible to praise the latterwork too highly, as every authority, whether ancient or modern, has beenstudied, and the information thus carefully collected has been classedunder special headings and offered to the reader in a concise andgraphic form which renders it perfect as a book of reference. I mustexpress my deep appreciation of the assistance that I have derived fromCaptain Savile's work, as it has directed my attention to many subjectsthat might have escaped my ob

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