HILARIA.
THE
FESTIVE BOARD.
London:
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR.
1798.
We, for the most part, differ in our notionsof pleasure; one man’s delight isanother’s aversion: but felicity is the aimof all. Where then shall we find it? acelebrated poet observes, “’tis no whereto be found, or everywhere.” I say withan air of triumph, which the experienceof a laughing life has imparted, the delightsof love and joys of wine, happilyblended, will enable us to attain the summitof human enjoyment. Would youmeliorate the condition of the mind, andgive to the body its best energies; fly tothe circle of convivial gaiety for the one,[ii]and to the arms of indulgent beauty forthe other—Life without this charmingunion, is like wine without fermentation,perfectly insipid—for the vinosity of wine,as well as the libidinosity of carnal nature,is produced (as Doctor Johnson, that leviathanof literature would have said)by the same exquisite process—fermentation.——Somuch in ancient as well asmodern times has been said and sung oflove and wine, that novelty on these topicscannot be expected. I am an enemyto every species of innovation; but moreparticularly to that lately broached by thecelebrated original four-legg’d, long-tail’d,philosopher, Lord Monboddo,Who is full of regret because we do notmix water with our wine.
Read with sober attention what hislordship says on this subject.
“As, by Isis, a plant was discovered,[iii]which furnished bread to man; so byOsiris, her husband and brother, an artwas invented of making drink for man:this art is what is called fermentation,which he applied to the use of the grape;and so first made wine: which, thoughit has been very much abused, as almostevery production of nature and art hasbeen by man, and, therefore, is veryproperly styled by Milton, The sweetpoison of misused wine. It may be appliedto the most useful purposes, for itis the best cordial of old age: and at alltimes of life it enlivens the spirits; and,therefore, Bacchus is called Lætitiæ Dator;and it cherishes the stomach: butit is a great abuse of this liquor, in moderntimes, to drink it pure, withoutmixture of water, which, I am sorry toobserve so much practised in Britain.”—Horacesays this ironically.
Notwithstanding this opinion, the gentlemen[iv]of Britain, whose fondness forpure, unadulterated, wine, cannot bedoubt